No sooner had I been rallying against natural wines, I was sitting in front of a glass. I thought I’d had my fill in Copenhagen – whites that tasted as oxidised as the cooking wine, whiffs as sulphuric as Iceland and that low-fizz that usually spells vino over. But they are an acquired taste – get through all the minerals of the periodic table, get over the cloudy look that screams cider and they’ll really grow on you. 40 Maltby is the place to experiment.
Friday: 12.30pm – 2pm and 5.30pm-10pm